Caribbean Trip - St John, VI

After a long day of travel, we got home at 2:00AM.

A few notes about the trip.

The weather forecasts were always totally wrong.  There was never a day that was a washout.  Everything was lush and verdant, so it has to rain sometimes.  Power was elusive. There is obviously a power problem on the island, but like everything, it just gets taken in stride.  All in all, it was a little on the pricey side, but since everything has to be shipped in, it’s not surprising.

Verdant 

We were very surprised that we had to go through customs on the way home, since it is the United States Virgin Islands.  It took about two hours of standing in line to get through.  

St John was hit hard by Hurricane Irma in 2017.  There are still remnants of the storm everywhere, and rebuilding is extremely slow.  However, there are some new places with nice shops and restaurants: Wharfside Landing and Mongoose Junction that we enjoyed. The only hotel on the island is the Westin.

The  Sunset Cruise was a real highlight of the trip, it was well done and very enjoyable.  The cruise was on a 55’ sailing catamaran and lasted about 2 hours.

Although there are lots of taxi’s (really, an open air jitney), we found that a jeep rental was pretty much a necessity. Parking is a huge problem, however.  There are a few paid lots in town, but they are expensive, and fill up quickly.  There is parking at all the beaches, but they fill up in the mornings.

We developed a pretty good routine.  We headed out for a beach or a hike by 9:00 and always found a parking spot. We came back to Cruz Bay for lunch, where parking was a challenge.  We went back to the VRBO for our afternoon siesta and a game or two of dominos before heading back to Cruz Bay for dinner.

Our VRBO, Bliss, was wonderful.  Extremely well equipped, everything we could ask for, with awesome views.  Would we go back…probably not.  It was a great trip, but since we are not big beach goers, we got to see everything we wanted to see and do everything we wanted to do.  But then again, never say never!

Bliss - Cruz Bay, St John, VI (Last Day)

 

Our first days here were a little rainy, but although the rain bursts could be severe, they didn’t last long and the sun would pop out again.  Today we learned about power…the power outages can be pretty severe, but they don’t last long.  Water in the VRBO relies on an electric pump.  Deb got up and made herself some coffee, while I took a shower.  And then POOF, no shower for her, no coffee for me.

No choice but to go into town for bacon, eggs, home fries and coffee.  By the time we got back, the power was restored and Deb got her shower. Unfortunately, the town of Cruz Bay lost power as we got ours back.

Today, we hiked to Rams Head, on the south east corner of the island.  It was a hike with a little of everything: sandy beaches, pebble beaches, mangroves, and cacti.  There were breath taking views, and 300 foot cliffs.  You know, those ones that some idiot backs up for the perfect selfie and falls over the edge.  Well, I caught myself, but not without a few scrapes. (Deb - he was not that close to the edge, thank goodness!)

It’s our final evening and we are doing a sunset cruise.  It all starts from the Westin Resort Hotel. We decided to leave a little early to check it out.  It’s nice (and apparently has its own generators).  Nuf said! The cruise was on a catamaran, complimentary drinks and hors d'oeuvres.  They put up the sails and we were on a lovely beam reach for close to an hour.  The clouds cleared enough for an incredible sunset.

With the power still out in Cruz Bay, we “settled” for dinner right on the shore at the resort.  

Fortunately, we had power when we returned, and we made a pact that we would both shower as soon as we got up!

Bliss - Cruz. Bay, St John, VI (Day 7)

 Another perfect day in paradise, weather wise   (Still in the 40’s at home)

Maho beach

It’s Deb’s day to pick our morning activity.  She said she was thinking about something that I probably wouldn’t like to do!  Let’s see…oh, I know…the dreaded kayaking.  It wasn’t actually what she picked,  but what she picked turned out to be completely sold out (whatever it was).  But, yes, she agreed kayaking would be awesome, thanks for suggesting it (maybe I shouldn’t have tried to guess).  Without corrective lens in her goggles, snorkeling would be pointless. However, it turns out that they rent clear acrylic kayaks, a win-win…not so fast buster…they only have doubles and Deb wants a single.  This is suppose to be our 40th anniversary get away.  You’d think, if there was ever a time for a double, this would be it. She probably just wanted the single because I’ve never gotten out of a kayak without capsizing it. Well, I didn’t completely capsize it, but it sure wasn’t very graceful!

Orchid 

Back in Cruz Bay, we finally got to the Beach Bar for lunch, margaritas and fries. I’m not sure that we’re hitting all the basic food groups.

The afternoon was naps, a pool dip, dominos and dining in.  We had bought some food for dinner, in case we didn’t want to go out, and tomorrow, our last day is going to be a sunset cruise. So we ate in.

Bliss - Cruz Bay, St John, VI (Day 6)

 Absolutely gorgeous weather today.  (Torrential rain at home).  

Waterlemon Bay

Today’s plan is to get out early enough to get a good parking spot, and walk to Waterlemon Bay.  The walk is along the shore, so there is no hill climbing, but unfortunately it did not meet the “at least 2 mile” standard that we have apparently set.  The only way to extend this hike to the proper length is climb a small hill to the Murphy Estate.  From here we can see the Narrows and Tortola, as well St Thomas.  

On the way back, we took off our shoes and stood in 6” of water while fish swam by, including a five foot shark and some turtles.  We are trying to be nonchalant about it, but it’s hard not to get just a little excited.

Orchid

Lunch is a communications problem.  The first day we were here, the property manager suggested that we go to the Beach Bar, a local tiki bar.  So today I wanted to go.  Deb thinks we are going to Mongoose Junction.  So we go there instead with the idea of going to the Beach Bar for a small dinner.  

With a lovely sunny afternoon, we finally made it to the pool for a refreshing dip, followed by a game of Dominos, that I finally won!  

 I have Googled the directions to the Beach Bar, but when we arrive it’s way more upscale than we imagined.  It’s also named Karma, it serves only sushi, and there is no way we are getting out for less than a hundred bucks.  Turns out it’s next door to the Beach Bar which is exactly what we thought it would be, a tiki bar.

Cruz Bay

Bliss - Cruz Bay, St John, VI (Day 5)

 

American Hill

Today started with a more ambitious hike to American Hill.  It’s an Estate House with a sordid history.  Apparently a safe house for rum runners during prohibition as well as a guest house for some Dominican Republic ruler in exile.  A Google search did not reveal much more.  We’ll just have to make up our own history…so there once was a beautiful princes, who…(your turn)

The hike was more than enough…but we did visit the sugar mill ruins…only because they had interpretive signs. (Deb can’t pass up an interpretive sign). Turns out people were living there as late as 1968.

Lunch at the St John Brewery Taproom.  Our first meal indoors.  Back to Bliss for a nap, and a game of Domino’s.  I think Deb is getting tired of beating me…I guess I’m no competition.  On the way to dinner, she explained some of the strategies she uses to consistently beat me…humbling…

Cucumber cooler 

On the way to dinner our phones were ablaze with flash flood warnings.  We were staring at our phones, when a person, apparently local, disparagingly said, “It’s so annoying to be getting alerts for St Thomas.”  Yeah, so annoying!?!  As if flash flood warnings weren’t enough, Deb wakes in the middle of the night to tell me there is an earthquake, and then again ten minutes later to tell me that it was a 5.6 off the coast of Tortola.   

Bliss - Cruz Bay, St John, VI (Day 4)

 Gorgeous day, perfect weather.  No excuses!

Deb bought new sneakers before the trip, mostly because old ones didn’t keep her feet dry.  Today we hiked from Cruz Bay to Honeymoon Beach.  It’s been raining so the trails were a little (maybe more than a little) muddy.  We may need to reacquire new sneakers following this trip!

Cruz Bay

The trailhead is at the National Park Visitors Center (side note - 60% of St John is a National Park).  You can park at the Visitor Center if you are going into the park.  It’s sort of like a speakeasy.  “Where are you going today?” (what’s the password?)…”We’re hiking the Lind Trail” (correct response)…”Here’s your parking permit!”  The beach was really nice.  Of course, there was the quintessential tiki bar, but since it was only 9:30, we decided to pass on that one.

Back in Cruz Bay, we ate a light lunch at Mongoose Junction, before heading back to Bliss (our VRBO).  Our plan was to use the pool, but some clouds started to roll in.  So much for our no excuses, we played Dominos, read, and enjoyed the view.  

Time for dinner, but it might rain! Okay, another excuse.  Dinner in!  I found some jerk seasoning which we added to our Salsa Chicken…it made a nice Caribbean dinner that we ate out on our balcony overlooking the island. 

Bliss - Cruz Bay, St John, VI (Day 3)

 

Annaberg sugar plantation

Yesterday the forecast was for storms, but it was clear.  Today, just the opposite. Reality…patches of sunshine mixed with patches of rain. Under sunny skies, we hiked the Francis Bay trail.  It was my pick and this trail had a long boardwalk through a mangrove swamp.  There is something about a boardwalk that draws me like a moth to a light.  The trail was fairly short, ending at a lovely beach with people fleeing to their cars because of the impending storm.  There was another short trail nearby that we hiked after sitting out the ten minute cloud burst in our vehicle.

Back at Cruz Bay, our plan is a much lighter lunch than yesterday, and then a more upscale dinner.  Down the hill to a local tiki bar on the beach.  After lunch, I get the True Confessions story that Deb is one T top short for the trip and we need to go shopping.  Happy Mother’s Day.  

Back at Bliss, our VRBO, we continue to hone our Domino Five Up skills.  It’s not as easy as it looks.

 Parking in Cruz Bay is very hit or miss.  We can park in the lot of the Jeep rental place, after 6 PM.  We carefully plan our trip to arrive at precisely 6:00.  There is already a jeep pulling into one of the parking spots and we snagged the other.  It’s the cutthroat world of Cruz Bay parking.  Dinner was very good.  It was our first time eating Yucca fries.

The dreaded hill!

Bliss - Cruz Bay, St John, VI (Day 2)

 The weather report calls for thunderstorms, but the sky is blue with just a few clouds, but we know things can change quickly.

Although, we bought wine, cheese and crackers last night, we bought nothing for breakfast.  There is a grocery store less than a half mile away, but it is all down a very steep hill.  We could drive…but…that would be cheating.  We have our standards…so…no breakfast!

Today is our first day of exploring.  We circle the island in our rental jeep, with the big sticker on the drivers side windshield, “KEEP LEFT” which worked most of the time.  A friendly toot from the car behind me worked the rest of the time.  There are way more beaches and hiking trails than we can do in a week.  But we have some ideas.  Back in Cruz Bay, we stop at the grocery store to get some breakfast food…now it’s not cheating…’cause we were driving right by it, anyway.

Margaritas 

Not only do we have rain clouds moving our way, but we also have the Wonder of the Seas, a cruise ship with 7,000 tourists moving our way.  We have decided that we should walk down the hill and back, once a day to get some aerobic exercise. Today, it’s lunch, before the rain and the tourists.  Margaritas and Taco

Salads, and then…back up that hill.

Deb found some dominoes, so we spent the afternoon learning how to play Mexican Train and Five Up.  Still not hungry, we opted for our “I’m still full from lunch!” standard…loaded baked potato cooked in the microwave.