Honey Pot Guesthouse - Crail, Fife, Scotland

 

The weather forecast for our last day is rain, thunderstorms, gail-force winds.  Reality was a little drizzle in the morning and partly cloudy sky’s in the afternoon.  The guide said that the path was completely washed out and we had to walk on the highway for the first three miles.  On the way there was a hand made sign that said the guide was WRONG!  We hiked the beach instead of the highway and it was absolutely gorgeous.  This was actually the best part of the entire walk.  Waves crashing on the rocks, a dozen or so castle ruins.  A coffee shop every mile or so in the morning and a tavern in the afternoon.

We were a little angsty about hiking thirty miles in three days, but in reality, each day actually got easier(that’s a very relative term!).  Could we do it again? absolutely!  Would we do it again? Can we get back to you on that!  

We got to the Honey Pot, which is right next to the Golf Hotel where they accidentally dropped our bag yesterday, it seems everyone in Crail was in on the snafu.  I brought the bags up to the room in my mud encrusted hiking boots.  This did not go over well with the owner.  She was very friendly to that point, but we haven’t seen her since.  I don’t think I did any permanent damage, but I won’t feel safe till I am on the bus at 9:50 tomorrow (she suggested that I be on it, even though the bus runs every hour!)

We had dinner at the Golf Hotel.  Chili over French fries!?!  The other restaurant in town sells Fish and Chips. So far we have not had a meal that didn’t include French Fries.  Tomorrow is Dundee.

Ship’s Inn - Elie, Fife, Scotland

 

Today is a little overcast, with drizzle!  We asked the bartender if it always rains in Scotland.  He said he wasn’t sure, he’d only lived here for three years (old Scottish joke).  Had a nice chat with the owner of the Lomond Guest House where stayed last night.  He used to work at the University at Aberdeen, but after Covid all the students seemed so apathetic.  So last year he quit and bought a Bed & Breakfast. So far his guests have been far from apathetic.  He made us focaccia sandwiches with Italian salami, roast peppers and mozzarella. Delicious!

We made a morning stop at the Crusoe Inn in Lower Largo. Named for Robinson Crusoe.  It’s said that Daniel Defoe based his novel on Alexander Selkirk who lived in the town.  Well it makes a good story, and provides an interesting motif for the Inn (including the Men’s Room - I’ll just leave that part to your imagination!)

By late afternoon we had come to the outskirts of Elie.  After a steep climb of about 400 ft, we came to the pillboxes and gun emplacements built to defend Scotland in WWII.  Of course, no one has attacked Scotland since the Jacobites in 1746.  (In fairness, we have pillboxes and gun emplacements in New Hampshire and no one has ever attacked New Hampshire)

Our only tiny, wee little problem was that our luggage did not arrive.  After a few phone calls our luggage was found in Crail, one town away and was delivered by dinner.  All’s well, that ends well.

Rosebay Willowherb

Lomond Guest House - Leven, Fife, Scotland

 This is the day of our highly anticipated, some angsty first day on the Fife Coastal Path.  Someone is going to remember to take our bags from Kirkcaldy

to Leven, while we walk along the shore for ten miles or so.   Deb has checked the weather and it’s suppose to be gorgeous all day. What could possibly go wrong?  As it turned out, the only thing that was slightly askew was that it was Sunday, so many places were closed!  Not sure why I didn’t think about that when I booked it last fall!

Much of the walk was beautiful, right along the coast.  For the most part it was an easy walk.  Along the way, we came to a Castle ruin.  A local was coming the other way, and explained in a fairly heavy brogue how he had lived here all his life and never noticed it until recently. I bet we got at least every tenth word!

We had already been warned that the last three miles or so would be just walking through towns, not on the shore. And there…across the street….all bright and shiny…the Brig Pub…it’s doors wide open…inviting us in!

A pint of Tennents, and a pint of dark berry cider (and a wee stop at the loo!), and we’re off to finish the first day of our walk (two more days to go!)

Tomorrow we are off for Elie, but it’s an easy walk.  Less than nine miles with only one little hill to go over.

Strathearn Hotel - Kirkcaldy, Fife, Scotland

 

We planned our day carefully, and made some adjustments to our schedule.  We had breakfast at 8:00 and second breakfast at 10:00.  We finished the morning with a walk-about (we got all the way to the end of the Royal Mile at Holyrood Palace, the Scotland “cottage” that the king of England stays at) ending up with lunch at 12:00.  Took the train across the famous red bridge that goes over the Firth of Forth to Kirkcaldy, in time for a few pints at the bar (Dominos - I won one, lost one).  Promptly at 6:00, we were escorted from the bar to the dining room (more like an eviction than an invitation). Back to the room by 8:00. And so ended the day.

We have morphed ourselves from tourists to hikers.  Got our hiking boots, hiking pants, granola bars, trekking pools, rain gear, first aid kit, flares (just kidding about the flares).  There is a little park that connects to the Fife Coastal Path right across the street from the hotel.  There is also an eight foot high stone wall.  We think we have a solution….we’ll find out tomorrow.

Market St Hotel - Edinburgh

 

Deb wants to get “the lay of the land.” Who are these Scottish people, where did they come from, what are they like… so we decide to do a walking tour of Edinburgh Castle.  There was a little sign in a store front that said “You get all four seasons every day. Welcome to Scotland.”  What we learned today is always bring your raincoat and a warm jacket, always!  

The tour was great.  The oldest parts of Edinburgh Castle are 900 years old, the newest parts are 90 years old.  We found out that all the stupid parts of the castle (like a fake moat) were all done by the English in the 1800’s.  We learned that the Romans thought Scotland was uninhabitable.  The Scots were always the underdogs and ya gotta love them for it.

For lunch we had halloumi sandwiches.  Neither of us knew about halloumi.  It’s a cheese that comes from Cyprus.  It has a high melting point, so you can grill it. It’s more popular in the UK than in the US, but we may look for it when we get home.

We had our afternoon cocktail at the hotel.  They have a nice bar on the top floor.  We played a couple of games of dominos (I won both!) before heading out for a more traditional dinner of Scotch Pie.

Tomorrow we leave for Fife, but we’ll be back in a couple of weeks.

Market St Hotel - Edinburgh

 We have been planning this trip for over a year. I saw the Edinburgh Tattoo when I was 13 and really

Spice bag with curry sauce

wanted to see it again.  We thought that hiking from inn to inn, with someone schlepping our luggage sounded like fun, and Deb thought that going to some place that spoke English would be nice for a change. (Not sure that she thought that one through!).  We have been buying necessities for the trip as Christmas presents and Mother’s Day gifts.  But it wasn’t until the day before the trip that we realized that we did not have a UK adapter to charge our electronics.  Oh the wonders of Amazon’s next day delivery!

Our flight was delayed by nearly two hours, so we got to sit at the bar and watch the American Cornhole Championship (you can’t make some of this stuff up!)  We finally got out of Boston a little after midnight for an uneventful flight to Edinburgh. Found the right bus, and got to the hotel.

We knew our first day would be a little rough, with no real sleep.  It was a SEW day (sleep, eat, walk…repeat) until we couldn’t do it anymore (around 6:00 PM) and went back to the room for the night.  We did manage to walk down the “Royal Mile”. I asked Deb what her first impressions of Scotland were.  I wasn’t sure what she said, was it “old” or “cold.”  She said, “yes!”

Bireme Trip Summary

 

We have returned home safely.  All in all, it was a great trip.  It was a little disappointing to have to take a bus for the first leg of the trip, but it was an express bus that skipped several stops (there was another bus that made all the stops the train would have made) so it was a short bus ride.

We stopped in Chicago and Albuquerque to take little breathers on the way, but it turned out to be a really good idea because the trains are always late, so spending the day insured that we wouldn’t miss the next train.  It turns out the Albuquerque is a crew change location, the train stops there for over half an hour making it so it’s not a mad rush to get on the train like it is at other locations.  For our bags, we each packed a backpack bag with a day’s worth of clothes for the train and had a rolling duffel bag with the rest of our stuff.  On the train to Chicago, there was room for the duffel over the door of our roomette, but west of Chicago, we had to leave the bag in storage area next exit door of the train.  The duffel was not readily accessible on either train.

Travelling in coach would be unbearable, but the roomettes are expensive.  The roomettes include access to the Amtrak lounges and all meals on board, but still, it’s a hefty price to pay compared to a quick cross country flight.

Chicago was a lot more fun than I thought it would be.  Even though it was cold and rainy, we enjoyed it, and would be back.  Albuquerque, at least old town, was probably a one and done kind of place.  We had planned the trip to see wild flowers but there has been a major drought, so that was a little disappointing.

We may do a Trans Canada trip in the future.  It will be interesting to compare.